Tips on Cleaning Different Materials in the Kitchen - 3
Although these tips have been tried and tested, we would like to point out that they should be carried out with
caution and used at your own risk, we are not liable for any claims, or damage, arising from using the remedies.
Please check with your kitchen supplier/manufacturer first, guarantees can be invalidated if the correct advice isn′t taken.
It is always safest to take any manufacturers advice foremost.
Before trying out any of the remedies, experiment on an area hidden away, not on direct view, first.
If you feel that you have a good tried and tested tip to offer others and would like to contribute to this page,
please send your tip to us via our contact page and we will endeavor to include it at a later date.
BACK TO PAGE 2Cleaning Granite - continued:
Poultice materials:
Paper towels, Cotton balls, Gauze pads, fuller′s earth, Talc Chalk or Saw dust.
To apply a poultice, take the following steps:
1. Clean the stained area with water and stone soap. Remember to dab the cloth rather than wipe.
2. Pre-wet the stained area with a little water. Distilled water is recommended.
3. Refer to the list above and determine which chemical to use for the stain removal.
4. Mix the poultice material with the selected chemical. Mix until a thick peanut-butter paste consistency is obtained.
5. Apply the paste to the stained area, overlapping the stain by at least ¼ of its size. Do not make the application too thick, or it will take a long time to dry.
6. Cover the paste with a plastic sandwich bag or food wrap. Tape the plastic to the surface using a low-contact masking tape.
7. Allow the paste to sit for 12–24 hours.
8. Remove the plastic cover and check to see if the paste has dried. If it has not, allow it to sit uncovered until thoroughly dry.
9. Once it is dry, remove the paste by scraping and rinse the area thoroughly.
10. Examine the stain. If it still remains, but is somewhat lighter, re-poultice until it is gone. If the stain refuses to disappear completely, ask your local stonemason for help.
So after explaining how stains are formed, being able to identify them, and removing them, please return back to the beginning of this granite heading for basic recommendations on how to keep your granite surface clean.
Keeping to these simple tips on your new granite worktop, can keep the surface looking new for many trouble free years ahead.
Cleaning Quartz:
Cleaning a quartz worktop is easy because it can simply be done with warm water and a sponge or cloth and dried with a paper towel or a cloth. If you accidentally spill household chemicals on your quartz worksurface you should blot it up right away before rinsing it with plenty of water. If you have extra stuborn stains, use a damp cloth and a small amount of non bleach, non abrasive liquid cleanser or a vinegar water solution. For very stubborn spills, use a household vinegar cleaner with a non-abrasive cleansing pad. Rinse thoroughly and dry with a paper towel or a cloth. Repeat if necessary.
Quartz is one of the world’s hardest materials, which is your assurance that the worktops will not easily scratch. However the use of a cutting board and trivets are recommended to maintain the from new polished condition of the worktop, so as to continue looking as new as the day it was purchased. Like all fine materials, quartz responds best when handled with care and attention.
Quartz may have the same characteristics as granite when it comes to being heat, chemical, and scratch resistant, but quartz is harder and non-porous compared to granite. Quartz worktops have become more popular because they are more durable and can resist stains caused by coffee, wine, vinegar, and lemon juice. It is still advisable to practice preventative measures such as using pads or trivets for hot pans and using a chopping board when you need to prepare food.
Even though quartz resists permanent staining when exposed to common household liquids such as wine, vinegar, tea, coffee and lemon juice or fruits and vegetables,it is highly recommended that you wipe up food and spills quickly. It is always easier to wipe up a spill than to have to deal with a dried-in stain.
Cleaning Laminate:
Before trying out any of the remedies, experiment on an area hidden away, not on direct view, first. As laminate is a very thin layer, some chemicals and constant rubbing could alter the worktops overall sheen level; causing more damage then you started with!
All that is required to maintain your laminated worktop is to clean it with a soft cloth and warm soapy water. Using washing up liquid is ideal. Never use harsh abrasive cleaners or abrasive scouring pads as these will damage the surface. To remove any stubborn food stains use any non-abrasive cleaner such as Cif or a mild (diluted) bleach.
If you have some stubborn marks and all household cleaners have failed, you can remove stains by rubbing with distilled vinegar, alcohol or neat bleach. Rust and food stains left on a laminate worktop after a baking sheet has been sitting overnight, have been removed using a dab of non-gel toothpaste worked in with a fingertip. Also Bicarbonate of soda gently rubbed on to a stain with a damp cloth, will remove it. For more stubborn stains try making a paste out of the powder by adding it to a small amount of water and leave it for several hours on top of the stain, before rinsing and wiping with a clean cloth.
If you own a Gloss worktop, more care needs to be given to everyday tasks which you wouldn't consider if it was a standard textured laminate. Use cutting boards for any food preparation or cutting, and trivets for hot pans. Clean with soft detergents such as washing up liquid, on no account use abrasive cleaners, pads or cloths direct to the surface. After using the soap solution, rinse well, as too much cleaner or soap may leave a film and cause streaks, dry with a lint free cloth.
Please note: The high pressure laminate used on worktops, is made by layers of paper impregnated with resins. The paper sheets are then fused together under a very high temperature and pressure, this fuses the layers into a single decorative sheet known as a laminate. The decor laminate on your worktop, is only thin, around 0.7 mm thick, (not the full 30/40mm as in worktop thickness), containing aprox 18% plastic resin; the rest is paper!
As the laminate on your worktop is a thin plastic material most scatches cannot be removed, so damage is permanent. In very light minor scatches, polish the counter with lemon oil or car wax, but beware this could also alter the worktops overall sheen level.
Treating and Cleaning Timber Worktops:
Use Soap flakes (not soap liquid) for the day-to-day cleaning of the timber worktop. To remove stubborn stains use a scouring pad (not steel wool) dipped in bleach. If this is not sufficient, sand the surface length-wise with fine sandpaper then apply a coat of Danish Oil and leave to dry for 30 minutes. NEVER use cleaning products that include Sal ammoniac or scouring powder.
If the worktop is fitted over a Belfast sink you should continue to use Danish oil monthly, or whenever beading of water no longer occurs on the worktop surface.
Household appliances that produce heat such as coffee makers, toasters, etc, should never be placed directly on the worktop, but on a heat resistant mat. This protects the worktop from coming into direct contact with heat sources that can result in the wood becoming discoloured, drying out, or in extreme cases splitting.
If dishwashers, washing machines or dryers are installed under the worktop, a barrier shield MUST be fixed to the underneath of the top to prevent excessive heat or moisture ingress. It is recommended that an alloy edge be fitted on adjacent edges when a top is installed next to a cooker or range heat source.
The first eight weeks of the solid worktop′s ′life′ will lay the foundation for the perfect condition expected for it′s future. Each top should be sanded to approx 120 grit eliminating the need for heavy sanding although further light sanding is recommended, follow by oiling with Danish oil. It is vital to oil ALL surfaces to ensure that the board reacts to moisture equally. This includes the underside although unseen, and all cut surfaces to prevent the ingress of moisture. Do not sand finer than 180 Grit as this could lead to difficulty in getting the oils to penetrate.
Prime all the exposed end grain first, then apply a thin, even layer of oil to all the worktop surfaces, and let this soak in for 30 minutes.
(Do not allow the top to ′swim′ in the oil). Apply a second layer to the worktop after 30 minutes - without wiping away any excess oil - and allow this soak in for another 30 minutes. Finally, with a dry clean cloth, wipe away any excess oil to avoid blotches, ensuring a uniform spread of oil.
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